Parador Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Spain - La Rioja

Four star hotel in the "Antiguo Hospital de la Ruta Jacobea" (The Old Hospital of the Jacobean Way)

St. Dominic used the site of the former palace of the kings of Navarra to build this Hospital to give medical care for pilgrims on their way to Santiago do Compostela.

The building was part of a major restoration of the surrounding area and opened as a Parador in 1965.

As you enter it is like stepping back in time when the church was the richest body and the rich and famous made their holy pilgrimages.

The main hall is divided into sitting areas by huge stone Gothic arches, with natural lighting through the old stained glass in the ceiling.

Pot plants flourish in the large public rooms which are furnished with comfortable large chairs.

The restaurant serves international dishes but specializes in the dishes of the region.

Recommended dishes are:

"Pimentos del Piquillo" being the delicious local peppers often with a tasty stuffing;
"Menestra de Verduras de la Ribeira" a vegetable soup made with local produce;
"Bacalao a la Riojana" a reminder of days before refrigeration using dried and salted cod which is still preferred (and more expensive) than the fresh fish;

This meal must, off course, be accompanied by one of the famous superb Rioja wines of the region.

Whilst staying at the Parador, time should be made to visit the Cathedral next door. In the mornings the solemn atmosphere might be disturbed by the crowing of a cock. Investigation will lead you to a glass cage near St. Dominic's tomb containing the bird.

This commemorates the tale that the innkeepers daughter was attracted to a young man who was on a pilgrimage but unfortunately it was not reciprocated. For revenge she hid some silver in his possessions and then reported him for the theft.

In those days punishment was swift and was death by hanging. It was reported to the son's grieving parents that St. Dominic had held him up so that he did not die. When the magistrate was told he said that the lad was as dead as the chicken he was about to eat. The cooked bird promptly came to life and flew off the table.

This tale is commemorated by the cock kept in the cathedral with a piece of the gallows hanging on the wall nearby.

It is interesting that this tale is almost the same as that of the Barcelos cock in Portugal which gives that country its national symbol

This Parador has fifty two twin bedded rooms, seven rooms with a double bed and two suites, all with a private bathroom.

All have a telephone, satellite television, safe and a minibar.

The rooms are large and many of them have a desk, table and chairs and also four poster beds.

Luxury in the bedroom is needed to counteract he clock an the adjacent cathedral which religiously strikes every hour.

The Parador has a sauna and a gymnasium. The Parador has facilities for the disabled.

Pets are not allowed.

Directions

The Parador can be found in the old quarter of the town, in the Plaza del Santo, next to the cathedral. Santo Domingo de la Calzada is 46 km from Logrono and 68 km from Burgos along the N-120, and 18 km from Haro, with a junction for the A-68 motorway to Zaragoza and Bilbao/Bilbo.